Origins of Pearls

Pearls are formed by shelled mollusks when a small irritant has found its way into the mantle folds of the mollusk. Not all of these "pearls" are considered valuable gemstones, however. Only nacreous pearls, which are composed by the secretion of nacre (or "mother of pearl"), are commercially valuable. Pearl oysters are found in saltwater, while freshwater pearl mussels survive in lakes, rivers, ponds, and other freshwater bodies.

Natural pearls are very rare, difficult to find, and very expensive. A natural pearl must have been formed in the wild, with no human contact. Pearl divers sought such treasures in the Indian Ocean, the Red Sea, the Gulf of Mannar, and the Persian Gulf for thousands of years. Most natural pearls on the market today are vintage and still demand the highest prices.

Cultured pearls are "natural" in the sense that the process is the same; however, humans plant the irritant that starts the process. Otherwise, cultured pearls are nearly identical to natural pearls. Until this technique was invented, pearls were out of reach for most consumers. In the 1930s, Coco Chanel's use of cultured pearls helped increase their popularity.

Imitation pearls are essentially beads that have been painted or dipped into a substance made of fish scales. Mallorca pearls fall into this category.

Saltwater Pearls

Saltwater pearls are formed with a small mother-of-pearl "bead nucleus" that helps guide the pearl to grow into a round shape.

• *Tahitian Pearls* - Black pearls continue to demand a higher price because they cannot be mass produced due to a number of factors beyond the control of the pearl farmer. Prior to the culturing process, black pearls were far more rare because white pearl oysters rarely produced natural black pearls, and black pearl oysters seldom produced any natural pearls. The black pearl made today is usually referred to as a "Tahitian black pearl." Tahitian pearls are usually harvested within two to four years after implant.
• *Akoya Pearls* - These "classic" pearls are made in Japan or China, and are usually white or cream in color, and may contain a luster of rose, silver, or cream. They are the most consistent in roundness, which makes them perfect for bracelets and strands. Akoya pearls are usually harvested within 9 to 16 months after implant.
• *South Sea Pearls* - South Sea pearls can be much thicker than Akoya, and they are known for their unusual satiny luster. These pearls are farmed in the Indian and Pacific Oceans, specifically in Australia, Indonesia, Myanmar, and the Philippines. Their color range is subtle, and usually consists of white, silver, and gold. South Sea pearls are harvested between two to four years after implant.

Freshwater Pearls

China is the largest worldwide producer of freshwater pearls. At one point, Japan harvested freshwater pearls, but the country's industrial pollution put a stop to it. Freshwater pearls are completely solid, so they resist chipping, wear, and other types of degeneration better than saltwater pearls. However, because they are not made with a round nucleus to help form them, such as those used in cultured saltwater pearls, they are rarely perfectly round. These pearls are harvested between two to seven years after implant.